TRUTHS ABOUT NATURAL WINE AS TOLD BY AN EXPERT, BALÁZS HÁGA
written by Lara Dupont
03. 11. 2021
Balázs Hága is a prominent consultant-winemaker and mentor based in Hungary. He has been deeply involved with Natural Wines, for about 2 decades.
Lara Dupont at Tiwari House recently sat down with Balazs to learn more about how he sees Natural Wines, what he sees ahead for Hungarian natural wine, and how should consumers and winemakers approach this at an interesting time when Tiwari House itself prides to make its wines with minimal interventions.
Lara Dupont: Natural Wine has garnered significant attention from media and younger generation. What is natural wine, and what is unnatural wine?
Balázs Hága: Despite I am involved in many conventional projects too, I feel comfortable and closer to natural winemaking. I believe naturalness has become more important to consumers, especially when they perceive existing wine paradigm to be off-balance or simply missing the thrill. For myself, making natural wine means a process, where I am playing an active part of the journey without drastically interrupting the works of micro-organisms found on the vineyards and grapes. I am focused on the process, just letting the flow proceed under the careful eyes. Natural wines should have no artificial components. The aim is to reflect the varietal, the terroir, the individuality through a different angle and style of winemaking. I think I rarely came across with unnatural wines. I see good wines and not very good wines in general. Obviously, some wines have nearly every attribute “polished”, but I would call them industrial instead of calling unnatural. Nature doesn’t make a wine but does fermentations, way before we started to enjoy wine. Natural wine is often described as an ancient concept, where fermentation occurs spontaneously. Just think of kimchi, sourdough, or even beer. This natural method is with us for long time. But to meet human palate expectations of today, we need a little control that guides the natural process.
“Nature doesn’t make a wine but does fermentations, way before we started to enjoy wine. Natural wine is often described as an ancient concept, where fermentation occurs spontaneously”
LD: In a true sense, to what extent is human and technology intervention acceptable for a natural wine?
BH: Intervention, both human and technical, is necessary in vineyards and winery, to achieve the quality standards and deliver on consumer expectations. Winemaking has changed a lot in the last decades. Viticulture is facing skilful labour shortages. In vineyards, beside maintaining soil health, precise timing and work scheduling are key towards quality. So, mechanisation is not only a personal choice but also a reality. Production size also has enormous effect on the level of intervention, both human and technical. For example, manual labour can be applied for vineyard sizes up to 4 hectares, but extended solutions will be required for larger vineyards. If a wine must be crafted for business, as opposed to personal consumption, then the processes must be flexible and adapt to wine evolution. In natural winemaking, constantly looking for the balance is crucial for business sustainability. Adjusting yields for local conditions on the vineyards or controlling fermentation temperature in the winery for example, have serious effects on further quality. It must be noted that it is not forbidden to use technology in the process of natural wine. However, any limits are controlled legally similar to conventional winemaking.
LD: What is the story of sulphur in natural wine context? When is it allowed and how much is allowed? How significant is it to the total sulphur?
BH: The use of sulphur is a heritage of the modern winemaking. It acts as an antioxidant agent. Winemakers tend to moderate the levels. Regulations are very strict on sulphur content of wines; however, it is allowed in every style of winemaking. It is the total-sulphur content which is measured and controlled in regulations. Zero sulphur movement is on-going and interesting, however a little confusing. Sulphur exists in wines in its natural forms, as the yeasts produce them during alcoholic fermentation without any addition to the wine. For example, in a zero sulphur wine, the total sulphur content could be up to 40 mg/litre. Wine laws differ by countries and by wine styles. Generally speaking, 200 mg/liter total sulphur content is the maximum permissible limit in dry white wine. In biodynamic wines, the maximum permissible total sulphur content is 60 mg/liter.
“Natural wines should have no artificial components. The aim is to reflect the varietal, the terroir, the individuality through a different angle and style of winemaking”
LD: Has the misconceptions and ambiguities around Natural Wines bothered you? How have you adapted your work to remain objective and focussed?
BH: Well, sometimes yes. Then I acknowledge it: natural wines are not for everyone’s taste. The style could be different from traditional wines, but not necessarily better. I strive to stay precise, open minded and patient in my work. More time is needed for natural winemaking, and this is also a key difference to conventional production. While in most wineries, production is pushed to serve the growing thirst for fresh wines coming out as soon as possible (often a few months only), in natural winemaking the same process will take more time to reach a comparable level of quality the winemaker is aiming to. The work requires a very conscious planning without compromise.
LD: Do you see this somewhat more political and social than technical? What does this movement mean to you?
BH: I see this natural wine movement somewhat getting back down to the roots to find connections. Sure, it has a social charge and some perceived health benefits, but for me personally it’s not a rebellion. It is more likely a consequence of the rushed and consumer-centric life. The importance of natural wines is more about the respect and basic connection with nature which our elders lived back in time. Some people move towards natural products because of allergies or sensitivity for artificially added stabilisers. Others try to move away from animal related or diary farmed products, for multiple reasons. I think all these factors feed into a movement of natural wines.
“Intervention, both human and technical, is necessary in vineyards and winery, to achieve the quality standards and deliver on consumer expectations…it is not forbidden to use technology in the process of natural wine.”
LD: What is the status of Natural Wine in Hungary? Is there any official definition?
BH: Natural wine movement is growing in Hungary. Despite its presence since about a decade or two, regulations are still embryonic. Hungary has a few winemakers working at different levels of the concept, often organic, but very rarely biodynamic. Officials just started to determine the natural wine style this year, with aim to integrate it with local wine laws. Certification and control bodies are present, but misconceptions and ambiguities are also widespread. I believe Hungary is a little special compared to other countries, with its advantages and drawbacks. A small but unique country looking for its track. Presently we are looking at export wine markets. With our winemaking heritage and traditions, and strides made in natural wine segment, we hope for further recognition in the global market.
LD: Are we expecting universal agreement sometime soon? What are the key rules that winemakers should adopt?
BH: Natural wines will become a new standard in near future. Producing within organic regulations will become normal soon, in general. Terms will change but winemakers should focus more on sustainability, energy consumptions and overall health factors.
In winemaking we should find a way to have more time on focus, reducing additives, balancing the market supplies and minimising transport emissions. Support local but think global. From my perspective in nutshell, advantages are clear. Advantage is our better life, our challenge is to learn continuously.
“Zero sulphur movement is on-going and interesting, however a little confusing. Sulphur exists in wines in its natural forms, as the yeasts produce them during alcoholic fermentation without any addition to the wine. For example, in a zero sulphur wine, the total sulphur content could be up to 40 mg/litre.”
LD: On a personal note, I now see more places to try and drink Natural Wines, wider variety of taste profiles, but quality is still a hit or miss. If there are any words of wisdom for consumers to approach natural wines, what are they?
BH: Natural wine is going through a normal and usual evolution process. For sure if a movement is making success, there will be producers who will “ride the tide”. It will bring out some not-quite-honest and low-quality wines too. In the last decade you see the improvement, producers have rationalised the portfolio and consumers have rewarded it. I suggest choosing wisely and allow time for yourself to make your choice. It is also helpful to ask for recommendation in shops. Natural wine has to be enjoyable too. Remember, the journey to your perfect match wine goes through thousands of bottles!
